US
Peterbilt 379 Semi Truck 1:18 in yellow and black (Obsolete)
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In 2016 this Peterbilt 379 went to the body shop to undergo a complete make over. The updated "version 2" is 2 studs longer and has various cosmetic and mechanical updates.
The updated parts list is here http://rebrickable.com/mocs/motomatt/peterbilt-379-semi-truck-118-in-yellow-and-black-version-2
The parts list below is for the original version.
A 1:18 scale custom Peterbilt 379 Lego Semi-Truck in yellow and black. Powerfunctions dual XL-motors for drive, Servo Steering, M-motor attached to PF switch for remote controlled headlights, roof lights, tail lights, and trailer light attachment, M-motor for raising and lowering the third axle.
I made this Peterbilt truck yellow and black to go with the lowboy trailer used to carry the 42030 Volvo L350F as well as a modified 8043 excavator. I also wanted a liftable third axle to make it a bit unique from other Peterbilt trucks.
The steering, drive train, remotely liftable third axle, suspension, and most of the cabin is all my own original concoction. The truck has a PF switch driven by an M-motor similar to what is found in Madoca's wing-body truck which is used to control the headlights, roof lights, tail lights, and an electrical connection allowing the trailer's tail-lights to use the same light switch. Originally, the truck also had a 2 speed gear box which was manually operated and accessible from underneath. The gearbox design was very similar to Madoca's SUV Mk II. I've since replaced the gear box with a straight 1:1 drive because, although very zippy in the faster gear, the torque of the two XL-motors resulted in a few too many false neutrals. Elements of the hood, cabin, and sleeper were incorporated from various designs available from BricksOnWheels trucks and Sariel's kenworth Road train.
I originally built this with alot of Chrome pieces. The instructions here replace most of the chrome with either light blue gray or dark blue gray.
Probably the most challenging part of the build is getting all of the PF wires neatly tucked away. The trick is to stuff as much of each cable beneath the hood area and not in the sleeper cabin area, so as to leave more room to tuck in the battery all the way into the sleeper cabin.
The updated parts list is here http://rebrickable.com/mocs/motomatt/peterbilt-379-semi-truck-118-in-yellow-and-black-version-2
The parts list below is for the original version.
A 1:18 scale custom Peterbilt 379 Lego Semi-Truck in yellow and black. Powerfunctions dual XL-motors for drive, Servo Steering, M-motor attached to PF switch for remote controlled headlights, roof lights, tail lights, and trailer light attachment, M-motor for raising and lowering the third axle.
I made this Peterbilt truck yellow and black to go with the lowboy trailer used to carry the 42030 Volvo L350F as well as a modified 8043 excavator. I also wanted a liftable third axle to make it a bit unique from other Peterbilt trucks.
The steering, drive train, remotely liftable third axle, suspension, and most of the cabin is all my own original concoction. The truck has a PF switch driven by an M-motor similar to what is found in Madoca's wing-body truck which is used to control the headlights, roof lights, tail lights, and an electrical connection allowing the trailer's tail-lights to use the same light switch. Originally, the truck also had a 2 speed gear box which was manually operated and accessible from underneath. The gearbox design was very similar to Madoca's SUV Mk II. I've since replaced the gear box with a straight 1:1 drive because, although very zippy in the faster gear, the torque of the two XL-motors resulted in a few too many false neutrals. Elements of the hood, cabin, and sleeper were incorporated from various designs available from BricksOnWheels trucks and Sariel's kenworth Road train.
I originally built this with alot of Chrome pieces. The instructions here replace most of the chrome with either light blue gray or dark blue gray.
Probably the most challenging part of the build is getting all of the PF wires neatly tucked away. The trick is to stuff as much of each cable beneath the hood area and not in the sleeper cabin area, so as to leave more room to tuck in the battery all the way into the sleeper cabin.
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27 COMMENTS
I have a question on the instructions. On page 88 is the 5 Axle suppose to connect to both of the Universal Joints? Thanks
http://bricksafe.com/files/motomatt/Custom%20Lego%20Peterbilt%20379/Custom%20Lego%20Peterbilt%20379%20Build%20Breakdown/IMG_2329.JPG
http://bricksafe.com/files/motomatt/Custom%20Lego%20Peterbilt%20379/Custom%20Lego%20Peterbilt%20379%20Build%20Breakdown/IMG_2337.JPG
http://bricksafe.com/files/motomatt/Custom%20Lego%20Peterbilt%20379/Custom%20Lego%20Peterbilt%20379%20Build%20Breakdown/IMG_2338.JPG
I've also bought the instructions for Ingemar's Lowboy Trailer to use with the 379.
V2: 58123bc01
V1: 58123c01
I run mine with both XL motors off a single V1 ir receiver, and the steering on another V1 ir receiver. If you choose to do it that way it may be cheaper to get it from http://shop.lego.com/en-US/LEGO-Power-Functions-IR-Receiver-8884 .
I also use the train IR controller for better steering and smooth throttle control. http://shop.lego.com/en-US/LEGO-Power-Functions-IR-Speed-Remote-Control-8879
Drive axle: pg35-43
steering: pg 45-53
It fixes the camber of the front wheels as well as occasional slippage of the rear drive axles out of the rear differential. There are a bunch of aesthetic improvements as well, including the interior.
The biggest challenge when building the 379 or 389 is probably to neatly fit all of the electrical wires into tight spaces.
The remote controls, which one or what do i have to order to make it complete. Not a lot experience with the controls. Just started to build technic after many years ;)
And for the connection to the trailer, do you make your one connection with the rubber elastics, which elastics do i need for that?
Please hear from you ;)
http://shop.lego.com/en-US/LEGO-Power-Functions-IR-Speed-Remote-Control-8879
You would probably break it more quickly using an 8885 remote control since the truck makes alot of power with 2 XL motors. I connected two 8879 remotes with one 8885 remote to control all my vehicles. Also, you probably don't need a V2 IR receiver. I run both XL motors off a regular IR receiver and it's fine. You could even run the truck with just 1 XL motor for nearly the same performance in most cases, and more battery life.
Since many of the parts are not technic, If you're familiar with building just Technic only, you will find that the truck is generally more fragile than a technic-only build, which could lead to some frustrations if you're not used to it. You just need to be more delicate when you assemble and carry it.
I used to use a fifth wheel based on Ingmar's rubber band aided design. Now I use one without any rubber bands (as per the instructions) because it's more durable and looks better. It can still work to remotely couple a trailer using a 3L axle as the joiner, although I usually use a frictionless pin.
At frist glance, the trailer looks close to Ingmar's (2LegoOrNot2Lego) lowboy. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=102992&st=25
I originally built Ingmar's lowboy trailer but then I build a second one from scratch according to my own likings, while still retaining Ingmar's detachable gooseneck design and his liftable rear axle. The trailer the truck is towing is my own custom one.
I miss the 2 remote controls in the parts list?